Punta Arenas (Point Arenas), Chile
by Paul H. Green
One of the southernmost cities on Earth, and the most southern city in Chile, Punta Arenas lies atop rolling hills and looks out over the Strait of Magellan. The city has about 120,000 inhabitants and is the capital region of the 12th district, Magallanes y Antartica Chilena.
Punta Arenas' economy is fueled by providing support services for the region's oil production and from sheep farming. The region is home to two million sheep, and its one of the world's largest sheep farming areas. Newer opportunities such as coal production and tourism are helping to make the region grow year round.
In the days before the Panama Canal, this was a major port as ships plied the waters of Cape Horn. Punta Arenas remains a prosperous town today, thanks to its rich natural resources. Like many Chilean cities, there is much to do if you plan to be in Punta Arenas.
Punta Arenas is also the starting point for excursions to some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. The best spot to gain an introduction to Punta Arenas is the Cerro La Cruz promontory, which provides breathtaking views of the city's orderly streets, colorful tin roofs, and the strait beyond. Among the city's most interesting attractions are the Museo Salesiano de Mayonino Borgatello, started by an order of Italian missionaries, and the Centro Cultural Braun-Menendez, housed in the mansion of one of the city's most prosperous families. The museum provides visitors with an extraordinary and eclectic introduction to virtually every aspect of the region. Its collection, accumulated by the missionaries during their extensive travels in the area, is composed of artifacts of all sorts-from ceramics to rare animal species. The Centro Cultural is equally engaging, offering an intimate glimpse of the life of a prosperous Punta Arenas trading family.
Furnished with fine European antiques, Italian marble floors, and grand ceiling frescos, this grand mansion gives a good indication of the economic stature of Punta Arenas before the Panama Canal was completed.
Looking for something extra while in Torres del Paine? A new company program out of Hosteria las Torres, Puma Explorations, is offering two departure times daily through April each year. From beginner to advanced, these daily programs offer a great taste of rock climbing in Patagonia. The cost of these rock seminars is at $38 US.
Aside from being easily accessible from Hosteria & Refugio Torres, these programs are all inclusive; ropes, climbing shoes, helmets, safety equipment and instruction from the experienced and ultra friendly Puma crew.
The founder of Puma Explorations is second generation Torres climber, Tomas Marusic L'huissier. Thomas grew up climbing with his father, Pepe (Jose Marusic Fernandez), a local legend in Torres del Paine. A day out with the Puma crew will open your eyes to the history of climbing in the region as well as getting you that much better prepared for your next rock adventure.
From Punta Arenas, it is an easy day trip to the Pinguineros, the nearby penguin settlements and the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, which provides the perfect introduction to Chilean Antarctica.
Whether you are looking for penguins, real or imagined, the city really is the gateway to Chilean Patagonia, a maze of fjords, rivers, steppes and mountains to the north. To the south lies the great frozen mass of Antarctica. Adventure awaits, at this port near the end of the earth.
Some things to do:
- To name of few; Plaza de Armas, Cerro La Cruz and its views, the Magellan Strait, the port and the famous Tierra del Fuego Island, which Chile shares with Argentina.
- Continue to the Maggiorino Borgatello Museum and the open-air Patagonian Institute. End with a visit to the cemetery of pioneer families.
- An actual living museum, 100-year old Estancia Fitz Roy is located on Riesco Island, one of Patagonia's largest. Here, be welcomed by Chilean 'baqueanos', the expert sheep farmers who have made this region famous. Learn different farm activities and enjoy a traditional lunch.
- Magellan penguins nest at Otway Bay and Otway Sound, 40 miles northwest of Punta Arenas. Peek in on their nesting habits as they burrow in the sandy southern shoreline. At the reserve you can cross the grassland interspersed with sandy areas to the penguin rookery by the seashore.
Our favorites:
- For a great place to eat with some real atmosphere, check out La Luna, at 1017 O'Higgins. lalunachile@mail115.com
- Many of you may be coming to Punta Arenas via cruise ship, so we suggest checking out the upstairs coffee shop at the end of the pier, and aptly named Puerto Cafe. This little place has great views, great music, nice people, really good food, and very reasonable prices.
- If you are in Punta Arenas to hike Torres del Paine, you can bed down before the trek at El Conventillo, 1034 Pje Komer. Info@hostalelconventillo.com
- Also check out our two hiking articles, Daily Rock Climbs and The Longest Trek in our weekly eMagazine and at www.gstraveladvice.com